Paris Pitstops
There's nothing like Paris in the Spring. While the weather can be iffy at times, it's by far my favorite time of year to go. Crowds are at a minimum and there are plenty of airfare and hotel deals to be found. On my last trip to Paris I decided to go on my own, and it was one of the best solo trips I've had in a long time. I was determined to see the city by foot this time, in the hopes of discovering some new favorites. I walked on average 10 miles per day and while I found so many places I would love to report on, here are some of my favorite spots to take a break, enjoy a glass of wine or some good eats, and soak in the Parisian atmosphère.
Marché aux Fleurs- 37 Place Louis Lépine, 75004 Paris, France
Tucked along the Seine, on the Ile De La Cité is one of the oldest markets in Paris, the Marché aux Fleurs. Abound with friendly vendors offering flowers, plants, gifts and delightful trinkets, this small but lively flower market has been in operation since 1808. While you smell your way through this green paradise take some time to pick up a unique gift or souvenir that you won't see all over Paris. I bought sachets for my suitcase and flowers for my room, plus little gifts for the girls at work who were covering for me, all while decompressing in the lush relaxing market aisles. And if you're there on a Sunday, you'll get to experience the bird market. With everything from canaries to exotic birds, it definitely puts a different spin on your average flower market. So have a stroll and take some time to smell the roses. It's a refreshing escape from the busy streets and tourist crowds, especially in the afternoon.
Le Relais Odéon, 132 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, France
If it's lunch or dinner you're after, try the Brasserie Relais Odéon in the 6th. This classic Paris restaurant has been around since 1938 and is one of my favorite finds. Tucked away on the corner of two lovely cobblestone streets, away from the bustling crowds, the family-owned Relais Odéon not only offers that quintessential French ambiance you want in Paris, but you'll feel as though you're treating yourself to a fancy place without the fancy prices. The menu is diverse and changes seasonally. I had the risotto which was perfectly creamy and delicious, and topped it off with a delicious smooth red from their abundant wine selection. Super friendly service classic French atmosphere and fresh delicious food, all measure up to a return visit in my book..
Marché Saint-Germain - 4-6 Rue Lobineau, 75006 Paris, France
The upscale Marché Saint-Germain is an absolute foodie's delight. The original market building at this location was built in 1511 by Abbot Guillaume Briçonnet to house more than 300 vendors. Unfortunately, it was destroyed by fire in 1762. Fast forward 255 years later to 2017 and it was reopened to the public. On a rainy day, there is no better place to treat yourself to a gourmet meal, or pastry you'll never forget. And if you’re staying in a private rental and cooking at home is your thing…bring a shopping bag and let the pantry stocking begin!
Au Vieux Paris d'Arcole, 24 Rue Chanoinesse, 75004 Paris, France
If it's charm you want, this little restaurant and wine bar just around the corner from Notre Dame Cathedral has it in spades. The building, which has retained much of it's medieval character, was completed as part of Notre Dame in 1512. It initially served as housing for the Canon of Notre Dame and even a Pope, before taking on patrons as a wine bar in 1723, making it one of the oldest bars in Paris. Even though I didn't eat here, I perused the menu of traditional French fare. Be aware, it sports some quirks as the translations don't always match up, but the exceptionally attentive and pleasant staff are happy to answer your questions. While it is on the pricier side, it's exactly what you would expect to pay in this neighborhood and at least you get what you pay for (which is more than I can say for other establishments in this tourist hub). I don't know wine, so I took my delightful server's recommendation and was happy about it. He gave me a mid-range red that didn't cost a fortune and it was the perfect refreshment to overcome the experience of being herded through Notre Dame. The street is quiet, with the exception of a car or motorcycle once in a while, and the perfect place for a romantic cuddle. Check out the two other houses nearby from the same period. I understand they still belong to the bishopship and house the Bishop of Paris to this day.
LADURÉE, 14, rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris
In my book, no trip to Paris is complete without a stop at Ladurée... especially if French macarons are your thing. Even if they aren't, there are lots of other sweets to tempt you, so stop in anyway! Named for its founder, Louis-Ernest Ladurée, the company has been around since 1862, opening first in the artistic Madeline area of Paris. But the more interesting story here is one of empowering women. It was Ladurée’s wife, Jeanne Souchard, who was responsible for setting Ladurée apart from other pastry shops. Jeanne invented the concept of the tea room, bringing coffee and pastries together to provide a place where women could meet on their own, creating a social and intellectual outlet for her peers. and over the generations, the management of the tea room was passed down from mother to daughter. To this day, there is a strong tradition of women who come to Ladurée to have tea with their daughters, celebrate their girlfriends, and power lunch. While some might write this off as just another posh tea room, I think 160+ years of women’s empowerment is something that should be celebrated and championed.
Ladurée’s iconic macarons finally arrived on the scene in 1930, invented by Louis-Ernest Ladurée’s grandson, Pierre Desfontaines. My favorite is the "Marie Antoinette", which closely resembles the "tea" flavor commonly found in the U.S. You can also have actual tea here (and coffee) and spend a few hours lavishing yourself with goodies before walking it off around the sights. For you fanatics who live in Ladurée deserts... there is a kiosk at Charles de Gaulle airport, although I can't remember which part of the international terminal it's located in because I was running to my gate (and even risked missing my plane when I stopped to grab some of these for the ride home). A tip on this strategy... don't buy them before going through security. If you really want to take them home, get them after you pass border control, on the way to your gate. This way you'll be able to keep them from getting crushed and maximize their longevity. If you manage to get them home unscathed (or uneaten), they'll last about a week refrigerated. If you're lucky enough to have one in your city back home, then you know what to do!
Shakespeare and Company, 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France
I couldn’t resist saving the best for last. Nothing brings a sense of calm over me like the smell of books, so if books are your refuge, then you’ll want to stop in at Shakespeare & Company. This place is pure magic. The shop opened in 1951, as Le Mistral, at 37 rue de la Bûcherie, under founder George Whitman. His daughter Sylvia owns the shop today and has expanded greatly on the company’s literary endeavors. An interesting fact…the site of the shop is also known as “Kilometer Zero,” or, the point at which all French roads begin. The 17th-century building was originally a monastery, La Maison du Mustier, and still retains many original details, such as the timbered ceiling and mosaic floors. George Whitman once recalled he, "created this bookstore like a man would write a novel, building each room like a chapter, and I like people to open the door the way they open a book, a book that leads into a magic world in their imaginations."
In 1964, Whitman renamed the store Shakespeare and Company in honor of Sylvia Beach’s original store at 12 rue de l’Odéon, which played host to some of the 20th century’s most prolific writers such as Hemmingway, Fitzgerald, Stein, and Joyce. Whitman wanted to carry on the spirit of literary camaraderie and community that had flourished at Beach’s shop. It’s estimated that over 30,000 writers, artists, and intellectuals have slept in Whitman’s “socialist utopia,” finding beds among the shelves and piles of books, reading, working in the shop, exchanging ideas, and writing their stories. They are called the Tumbleweeds, and the tradition continues today, under a few modified conditions of course.
Some notable visionaries who have visited Whitman’s shop include Anaïs Nin, Henry Miller, William Burroughs, and Allen Ginsberg, to name a few. And to this day, it still attracts the greatest literary, intellectual, and artistic minds from around the world. It can get crowded with tourists, but they have a strict policy against photos, so you can rest assured some influencer won’t be live streaming their thoughts on A Moveable Feast while you’re trying to soak your soul in printed goodness. Not without a little guilt, I managed to sneak in a wee photo under the radar, featuring “Kilometer Zero”… but you really should see it for yourself. There are very few places like this in the world and let’s hope they never close their doors.