Swooning Over Scotland

Scotland was never really on my travel radar. I had heard it was beautiful, and figured I would make it there soemday, but you know how it goes; so many places to see, so little time to see them. Then a few years ago my aunt started vacationing there, and every time she came home she immediately fixed her sights on going back. I finally had to ask, What was so special about Scotland? Aside from the ancestral connection, she said it was one of the most beautiful places she had ever been. But more than that, she said it was the Scottish people who had won her over just as much as the country's awe-inspiring landscapes. After years of listening to her swoon, I finally decided, it was time I found out for myself what was so special about Scotland. And believe me, it didn't take long before I was the one doing the swooning.

We set aside two weeks in early December to explore what the Scots had to offer. Usually one of the coldest times of year, somehow we got lucky, and the weather was more than accommodating; even hitting near 50 degrees (F) on some days. We made our base in Edinburgh, renting a 2 bedroom flat at the bottom of the Royal Mile, just a few blocks from Holyrood Palace. On that first day, as we climbed the Royal Mile toward Edinburgh Castle, I immediately fell in love with the charm of the Old Town. The shops and windows along the Royal Mile were graced with garlands and lights, giving the city a cozy, magical warmth that made me want to find a cafe and sink myself into a hot cup of tea. Ducking through doorways and winding stairs, we leisurely admired the tartans and gorgeous tweeds; chatting with shop owners to our heart's content. Meandering through the narrow cobbled streets and passageways the intimate charm of the Old Town is impossible to refuse.

Edinburgh's thriving culture and easy accessibility make it a great place to explore on foot. Separated by the Princess Street Gardens are two distinct sides to the city, aptly deemed Old Town and New Town. The hilly Old Town boasts Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, the Royal Mile, and a myriad of historic sites, including Arthur's Seat and the Gothic St. Giles' Cathedral. Cross the North Bridge or shuffle down Bank Street and you'll find yourself in New Town, home to the Scottish National Gallery, Princess Street Gardens, and Georgian Edinburgh; not to mention a retail haven for shoppers. At this time of year the city plays host to a few holiday markets. There was a small lovely market on the Royal Mile with local artists selling unique crafts and artisan goods that you wouldn't find anywhere else. In the gardens along Princess Street was the larger holiday market, complete with an ice rink, carnival rides, and Santa's Village. While it's really more of a fair, there's some good shopping to be had and the festive atmosphere is sure to get you in the holiday spirit.

Grand Tours

The more I travel, the more I get into the organized tours. Whether you're on limited time, or just want to take the day to sit back and let someone else do the driving , an organized tour can be a great way to spend the day. There are several operators out of Edinburgh with day trips that give you a lot of bang for your buck. We did three excursions during our stay in Edinburgh; one with Rabbie's, one with Highland Explorer Tours, and one with Timberbush Tours. Not only were the prices more than reasonable, the guides were all extremely knowledgable, and the itineraries were varied and well planned, allowing plenty of time at each stop. Here are the itineraries we took, all costing around $50-60 USD.

The Kelpies, by Andy Scott. The Helix, Grangemouth, Falkirk — *The Kelpies, by Andy Scott. The Helix, Grangemouth, Falkirk*

Tour 1: The Kelpies, Loch Lomond, & Stirling Castle

Tour 2: St. Andrews and the Fishing Villages of Fife

Tour 3: Rosslyn Chapel, Scottish Borders & Glenkinchie Distillery

Each guide added their own personal touch to the tours, by including extra stops. These were usually places the guides knew about from their own travels and exploration, or simply because they were local to the area. These impromptu stops consisted of great photo opportunities, a winding road with a an old castle or walkable trail at the end, or a quiet place to rest a moment with a cup of tea and take it all in. In the off season you can usually book the afternoon before you want to go, but at other times of the year, you'll want to book ahead, which can easily be done online. And if you want to visit them in person first, they all have locations on the Royal Mile.

Highlanders for a Day

While the day trips from Edinburgh showed me the wonderful sites and history of Scotland, it was the Highlands that stole my heart. My aunt had a friend in Inverness, so we decided to journey there for an overnight. The train north was one of the most beautiful rides I've ever taken and once we reached the Highlands I immediately knew there would be another trip back here in my future. The colors of the sky and the clouds juxtaposed against the rolling hills spread out as far as the eye can see, begging to be explored, make it no wonder the Scots are such fans of the outdoors.

Inverness City itself is a charmer. Apart from our trips to Loch Ness and Culloden, we stayed in the city center, which was easily done on foot. Situated on the River Ness, Inverness stands as the perfect combination of old world meets new. The journey from Edinburgh can be done in as little as 3.5 hours and the Inverness Palace and Hotel is a luxury steal at under $100 USD per night in the off season.

Thanks to our friend Yvonne, we were able to explore Inverness and the surrounding area. From the austere beauty of Culloden to the mysterious quiet allure of Loch Ness, every turn of the highway had me wanting more. More vistas. More misty lochs. More winding roads. The immovable past of the Highlands is palpable here and the energy of it lingers in the air, in the ground, and in every quiet sound you think you hear.

There are some great art galleries in town, such as the Castle Gallery which features local Highland artists, and artisan gift shops like the Drawing Room where you are sure to find a unique gift or souvenir to take home. Inverness also boasts plenty of great restaurants and cafes to grab lunch, dinner or sit for tea. Try the local favorite Fig & Thistle for tea or lunch and you won't be disappointed. According to our friend Yvonne, Inverness is growing, with more shops and restaurants popping up all the time. The arts community especially is gravitating here and new galleries showcasing some of the Highlands most creative talents have grown in number. It's an old port city with a modern flair and while you can tell the city is entering a new age, it's clearly doing so with grace and style.

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Back in Edinburgh we took the last week to really live like locals, walking the closes and cobbled streets, talking to the shop owners, and finding great restaurants and cafes, like the Canon's Gait. We even found some expats, who like us, fell in love with Scotland on their travels. Be sure to take time to really dig deep into all Edinburgh has to offer and spend some time seeking out the intimate nooks and crannies that are sure to give you a real taste of the local culture and history. Then find a cafe or a good wine bar and take a moment to sit back and let Edinburgh sink in.

While Scotland turned out to be one of the most beautiful countries I've visited so far, nothing about the country was as beautiful as the Scottish people themselves. Everywhere we went we were greeted with a smile and well wishes. The Scots are a lively and good humored bunch, but above all, I find them to be kind, authentic, and genuinely welcoming. In times like these, you never know what kind of reception your going to get. So when you meet people who look past the politics, and treat you with respect, regardless of where you're from, it It matters. It matters a lot.

Honorable Mentions:

Some cafe's worth an honorable mention are Laila's Bistro, The Devil's Advocate, Maison de Moggy (the cafe for cat lovers), and if you're a Harry Potter fan, don't pass up a cup of tea at the eclectic Elephant House Cafe.

Jennifer BrickFebruary 11, 2018